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Embroidered Jacket with Phoenix - Image 1
Embroidered Jacket with Phoenix - Image 2
Embroidered Jacket with Phoenix - Image 3
Embroidered Jacket with Phoenix - Image 4

Helen Burton and Camel's Bell Shop

Embroidered Jacket with Phoenix

1919-1929

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Embroidered Jacket with Phoenix

1919-1929

Physical Qualities Unidentified ground; cotton or silk embroidery threads, gold-metallic wrapped embroidery threads, 34 × 44 in. (86.4 × 111.8 cm.)
Credit Line Gift of Michael and Anis Merson, Baltimore
Object Number 2017.428
A hybrid Western/Eastern jacket with center front opening, mandarin collar, and long, set in, slightly flared sleeves. The jacket is covered in couched gold metallic–wrapped threads. A large-scale phoenix worked in multi-colored embroidery threads covers the front, back and outer sleeves of the jacket. The phoenix is depicted in dark blue, teal blue, turquoise-green, purple, rose, pink, orange, white, and black threads (plied cotton and/or silk) on the dark golden ground formed of the couched metallic threads. It stands on a rock formation or mountain surrounded below by wave motifs outlined in dark blue threads with wave crests in teal and rose. A vine with leaves with floral motif (possibly a lotus) grows out of the waves. The coat’s hem, sleeve opening, and side seams are outlined in a dark blue key fret motif. A second outline within the fret design is formed of Chinese fungus shapes worked in rose. The coat is closed with two rose-jade sphere-shaped fasteners joined by a dark blue silk cord, each of which fits through an opening in the seam between collar and neckline. The coat is lined in dark blue silk, which may be a replacement. The original retailer's woven tag was included with the coat when donated.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2017; Michael and Anis Merson by purchase; unnamed Baltimore collector, possibly "Deco Dave," via e-bay; originally sold via Camel’s Bell Shop, Peking, China
Advertised on e-Bay,

Inscribed: Woven into tag sewn inside of jacket: “FROM/THE CAMEL’S BELL GIFT SHOP/PEKING CHINA/ Made in China”

Retailer

Helen Burton

1890–1970

American, 1891-1971
Meet Helen Burton

Retailer

Camel’s Bell Shop

1921–1942

Chinese, 1922-1943
Meet Camel’s Bell Shop
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